Full of Deities, Empty as Mu
It is a riddle- a culture full of deites with a spirituality intent on emptiness. Shintoism with its central symbol, a mirror, reflecting the spirit in you and all of nature, then Buddhism, no supreme being, but with a multitude of deities and its meditative goal to empty oneself of all images, all rational constructs and return to the center of being, Mu, no-thing. Yoko said the deities are somewhat like the saints of the Catholic church- spirits that are honored and venerated. I remembered medieval churches in Europe. There are churches full of images of angels, biblical stories, and saints. On the other hand Christianity has revered stories of monks going into the desert to empty themselves of all earthly possessions and desires.
So, enter the portal of the riddle with me. We go to Lake Ashinoko in Japan. Here is the Omikoshi- the community carries the local deity on a palinquin. It could be a local deity, or a mirror of Shintoism, or a relic of historical significance. Regardless, it binds the community in a rhythmic parade through the streets.
Yoko and I went to the hall of a 1001 deities, Sanjusangendo, in Kyoto. There were a thousand carved images of the deity, Kannon, the goddess of mercy, with a retinue of fierce protectors. I have to tell you, growing up protestant in the mountains of eastern Kentucky, very little in the realm of images except a cross, well, I was a little overwhelmed.
I was relieved to go to the tranquility of the Zen garden of Ryoanji below.
We went to many a temple and shrine- Toshogu Temple at Nikko and Kencho-ji Temple in Kamakura. Beautiful and ornate, but I was more impressed with the trees- the giant cedars at Nikko and the 700 year old Juniper planted by Esai, the founder of Zen Buddhism in Japan at Kamakura.
Tendai Buddhism relied heavily on Buddhist scripture in the Lotus Sutra. Scholarly works became voluminous and certain shuganate lords supported the monasteries and temples. Esai came from China and introduced Zen Buddhism. Though arising out of Tendai traditions the Zen masters thought that Tendai Buddhism depended too much on rationalism. They espoused a more immediate experiential kind of Buddhism, one that demanded meditation, rigorous self-reflection, compassion for all living things and puzzles (koans) or stories that would jolt the initiate out of rational constructs. Controversy erupted and some shogunate lords sided with the Rensai or Zen monks. Yoko and I went to Matsushima Bay where little pine tree covered islands are scattered like jewels on the sea. It is said that the Rensai monks took the Tendai scriptures to one of these islands and ritually cleansed them by fire. That is, they burned them up.
Conflict for power and control aside, the care of all living things is central to Buddhism. At the Kencho-ji temple in Kamakura they have a memorial for all insects that are harmed by humans. And there is extraordinary meticulous care of gardens, both at temples and homes. So many places I witnessed how they propped up old trees with bamboo poles. They have an eye for simplicity, efficiency, and beauty.
They have big Buddha sculptures all over Japan. I went to a famous one in Kamakura that attracts tourists from all over the world. Tourist shops line the streets with throngs of people scattered all over the area. It is a big money maker. The big Buddha is cast in bronze. I can't help but wonder if this is what the Buddha had in mind. I took a kind of Zen picture of me and the Big Buddha. Big Buddha and Big Randy.
I will leave you with a koan from the book, Zen Flesh Zen Bones.
"I look upon the judgment of right and wrong as the serpentine dance of a dragon, and the rise and fall of beliefs as but traces left by the four seasons."
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